Rebuilt engine in

A fair bit has happened since my last post. I bought the red Civic up to road worthy standard which entailed the following:

  • Replacing the bonnet, as the old one had fatigue cracks
  • Repairing a hole near the join in the muffler to the exhaust pipe
  • Removing and replacing the master cylinder which was leaking
  • Replacing the steering wheel, which had deteriorated and broken away from the metal ring. It wasn’t worth repairing as the rubber was falling apart. Whilst I could re glue it to the metal ring it wouldn’t take long to come completely apart
  • Fixing an oil leak.  I had actually fixed this prior to taking it for the roadworthy, but as I hadn’t been able to fully clean all the oily muck off, they thought it was still leaking.

I didn’t have to spend very much getting it to standard thankfully, given I was taking the D15B7 out and putting my rebuilt motor in.

I spent yesterday and today removing the old motor and installing the B16A. Just have to reconnect everything, run wires for the vtec solenoid and oil pressure switch. I also need to move the accelerator cable and fuel rail from the old Civic to the new.

The next part is installing the intercooler, piping and turbo. This part is all new to me, the goal being to get it to a running state that will allow me to take it to a tuner. Fingers crossed all goes well.

Another Civic

Picked up this red Civic today as its in somewhat better shape than the blue one I currently have. The owner tried to get the Road Worthy (must have one to sell the car registered), but failed on a few things:

  • Bonnet (structural damage, the metal has fatigued and broken where the bonnet holder props it up)
  • Split CV boot
  • Worn front tyres

As I had all of the above, they brought the car over and fixed those up (thus the blue bonnet on a red car). When they took it back, they failed on more things:

  • Hole in exhaust
  • Alternator o-ring leaking
  • Master brake cylinder leaking
  • Handbrake needs adjusting
  • Front brake pads
  • Rear brake linings

So they are going to dereg this arvo for me. None of is an issue for me to fix as Im moving everything from my blue civic to this one; its just a shame they didnt service it prior to selling else they would have known. 

I wiped away some of the oily muck from the leak and found the gearbox is blue – the owner had it for 4 years and never knew  


First home and new wheels

Moved into my own first home over the weekend, nice 3 bedroom lowset home with a large double garage (with a thick enough concrete base to allow me to get a car lift installed, huge plus!). So glad to have my own place, have a garage (last place only had a carport that the owner used) and plenty of space. 

The new place puts me fairly close to some wreckers that have honda parts, whilst I was at one enquiring about a subframe, I had a look at their imported wheels and located a set I liked so grabbed them then and there, just managing to fit them in the car that was already carrying a house load of stuff. Fitted them yesterday:

I had a set of 16″ speedy wheels on there previously, but Im liking these 15s (Monza, unknown model, wrapped in Yokohama 195/50 tyres) . Eventually I’ll em onto my other civic once thats back up and running.

Engine rebuild completed

Adam at PEACH Performance completed the engine rebuild a couple of weeks ago. I have slowly been adding the various parts back on, and am almost ready to install back into the car.   I need to drop by Super Cheap to get some replacement exhaust studs, a tap & die set to fix another stud so I can remove it (looks like something has hit the thread, and ruined one nut already).   LSD for the gearbox is yet to turn up, so contemplating buying one locally (but dont really have 800 to spend at the moment, see below).


I have just purchased a home, so will be moving in the next few weeks, which means Im unlikely to get the engine in the car just yet (would be a great break in if I could).

Engine now being inspected

Engine is now at P.E.A.C.H Performance, being stripped down and inspected. Hoping to get a call this week re the condition (I know the oil rings have had it), then hopefully on with the rebuild.

Im also investigating my options for getting a diff installed and a new clutch. At the moment I’m looking at a Cusco helical diff and an Exedy Sports Organic clutch.

Smoking it up

Have had a fun month so far. I recently shifted houses, and was in a mad rush to try and get the road worthy for the Civic. Unfortunately, I discovered after I booked it in that the parts store had ordered the wrong bushes for the lower control arms (front and suspension bushes are cracked). They were able to get me the right ones a few days later (and gave me a discount for the trouble), but at that point it was too late to get sorted.

Oh yeah, I also had to get the old tint off the rear glass. Took it to a tint shop who said the only way to get rid of it was with a blade (the black rubbish/amonia/steamer trick does not work!). Issue with that is it kills the demister lines. So located a new screen and had it fitted.

Next day I started the car and notice it was running a bit rough and smokey, but didnt have time to look into it.

A few days later I drove the car over to the new house (still sounding/feeling rough, but no drop in power or anything) and it decided to blow an insane amount of oily smoke out the exhaust about 500 meters from the new place. I had thought the PCV was blocked, but thats OK. No oil in the intake manifold. So either the rings or the valve seals are gone.

So its not going on the road quite yet, but my plan for an engine rebuild has been accelerated as a result.

I’ve ordered/received the following:

  • ACL Race Bearings
  • ARP Head Bolts
  • ARP Rod Bolts
  • Nippon Low Compression Pistons (81.5mm)

I was having a look around Ozhonda and found someone locally selling two garret turbos, one of which they had on their Integra, running at 10-15psi. Managed to get the second garret for free, both in good condition.

Not overly impressed with the nippons, but really a given as they cast rather than machined. The tops of the pistons are quite rough.


Still to order/locate:

  • ARP main studs
  • Skunk2 Cams, Springs, Retainers and Valves
  • Intercooler and piping (there are kits on ebay that would cover this).

Enumerate Active/Inactive Printers

#Title: Enumerate Active/Inactive Printers 
#Author: Owen Barnes #Website:
#Loops through event logs on print servers to ascertain whether a given print queue is in use. 
Set variables $hostname = "xxxxxxxxxx" #Name of server you wish to run this script against 

#how far back to obtains logs. Must be negative!
$thisDate = (get-date).addmonths(-6) 

#Load files/event log 
 $printerports = Get-Content "PrinterPorts.txt" #Text file containing hostnames of printers 

#get system logs from hostname, filter all event ids bar 10 (successful print)
 $events=get-eventlog -Logname system -ComputerName $hostname|where {($_.eventid -eq 10) -and ($_.timewritten -gt $thisDate)} 
 #$events = Get-Content "logs.txt" #Text file containing the event logs - less cpu/network intensive than doing live #loop through each printer listed in printerports.txt 

 foreach($line in $printerports) 
  $counter = 0 $found = 0 while ($counter -lt $events.count) 
   #if the current event contains the printer name, report in use
   if ($events[$counter].message -match $line) { write-host $line " is in use" $found = 1 $counter++ break } $counter++
  #if above while does not locate printerport within the logs, report not in use
  if ($found -eq 0) { write-host $line " is NOT used" }


As per my previous posts, I needed to get a safety done to be able to register the car. Dropped around to the mechanics this morning and just come back with the following minor things:

  1. Tint impacting driver vision (bubbled/torn)
  2. Wipers can’t be reflective (no paint)
  3. Air Intake pipe must be secured
  4. Door handles need to be secured
  5. Lower Control Arm bushes are torn
  6. Rocker cover valve must be plumbed back into the air intake, cannot be blocked off nor have a filter put on it.

Will have to get something made to hold the intake pipe. I am thinking something along the lines of this: Though a cold air box would be better? I knew about the door handles, but wasn’t sure about it affecting the inspection.


I received my Skunk2 manifold awhile ago and I’ve been putting off installing it due to the ‘perceived’ difficultly. However I tackled it yesterday and got it installed without issue.

Seems whoever last had the manifold off was rather enthusiastic with gasket sealer, but nothing a sharp blade couldn’t deal with. The inlets all looked clean (no build up), same with the injectors, o-rings, etc.

I was also able to use a cold air gasket I had made by someone on NZHondas over a year ago and never used. Bolted all together, bypassed the FITV and connected the hose straight to the IACV.

Got it all back together and started it up. Sounds quite healthly, though the idle speed is far too high, even with the engine warmed up and the throttle cable adjusted as far as it can go. Tested for vacuum leaks and found none. I’ve blocked the EVAP valve on the IM as charcoal canister has been removed – the evap solenoid was still on the IM but not connected.

This civic has the MAP sensor on the firewall, but the skunk2 throttle body has a mount point on the bottom of it for one. Fortunately I had a spare MAP sensor and bolted that on and removed the firewall one.

I’ve got to test the TPS, as I took that off a spare throttle body rather than use the one that was on the engine to begin with and have no idea what condition its in. The only other thing it could be is the IACV, but it was working ok on the previous IM.

Gotta remember to upload some pics tonight.


Fuel Rail removed

IM removed

IM + TB installed, fuel rail, sensors, throttle etc plugged in

Throttle Body. I want one as a paper weight – srsly awesome piece of machining.


Late last year, I took out the left hand drive shaft to replace the boots. Got that done without too much issue and started putting it back together. Despite reading various diagrams/instructions, I installed the bearings back to front. Of course it doesnt prevent you from doing this and slid in without issue. It wasn’t until I put a bit of downward force on the wheel to get the suspension fork in place when then was a very loud clunk. I checked everything out but couldnt see anything wrong, and took it for a test drive. Soon became evident that I had shattered the bearings on the drive shaft.

Of course I find this out the day before I flew out to NZ for the Christmas holidays, so I had two and a half weeks to mutter/curse my stupidity before I came home and be able to fix it.

I checked out prices at Repco and they wanted $250AU for a drive shaft. Luckily I needed to pull out the drive shaft to find the correct size before ordering one and was speaking to my flatmate who mentioned a similar shop around here called Bursons. A quick 10 minute drive later and I had a replacement drive shaft for $150 – never going back to repco for car parts.

Last night it was finally cool enough for me to work on the car – its been reaching 35 degrees around home and high humidity which makes it unbearable for working on cars. Took off the wheel, unbolted the LCA, steering linkage and sway bar and fitted in the new drive shaft with ease (after clearing out all the remains of the bearings). It took less than an hour to do – certainly becoming a lot quicker with these things. I did manage to crossthread one of the bolt holes, but my flatmates going to rethread it for me (handy having a flatmate who works as a mechanic at the airport).

Drove the car up and down the driveway a bit and couldnt feel/hear any issues which is great – meaning I can continue my plans of getting it registered/safety certed.

Going to order the stage 2 cams very shortly – I seem to be following NZJonos build closely